Dinant: The Birthplace of Cool
- The editorial team
- Jun 25
- 5 min read
Updated: Jun 26
It is a sound that defines the soul, a silhouette that embodies cool. From the smoky jazz clubs of New Orleans to the pulsing heart of rock and roll, the saxophone's voice is instantly recognisable. It all started here in the Belgian town of Dinant.
Nestled in the dramatic Meuse Valley, just 90 minutes from Brussels' bustling heart, Dinant is a place of striking verticality. Its most prominent feature is the formidable Citadel, perched defiantly atop a limestone cliff.
Below, the town unfurls along the riverbank, its skyline punctuated by the onion dome of the Collegiale Notre-Dame de Dinant. This church has risen, phoenix-like, from the ashes of conflict time and again.
It was here, in 1814, that Adolphe Sax was born. The son of an instrument maker, Sax inherited a passion for acoustics and a relentless desire to innovate. In the shadow of the great cliff, he tinkered and toiled, eventually creating an instrument that would revolutionise music, lending its soulful, melancholic, and sometimes raucous voice to jazz, blues, and rock and roll.
Here are nine must-see experiences that capture the essence of this captivating Wallonian town.
The Citadel of Dinant
Whether you brave the 408-step climb or opt for the swift cable car, reaching the Citadel is a journey back in time. Fortified initially in the 11th century and rebuilt by the famed military architect Vauban in the 17th, its walls whisper tales of sieges and conquests. The panoramic views over the Meuse are truly unparalleled, offering a strategic vantage point that explains its historic importance. Inside, the museum doesn't just display artefacts; it plunges you into the trenches of the First World War in a reconstructed dugout, a powerful and sobering exhibit detailing the town's martyrdom in August 1914.
Cross the Charles de Gaulle Bridge
More than just a river crossing, this bridge is an art installation and a celebration of European unity. Each of the giant, stylised saxophones that line its length is uniquely decorated by an artist to represent a member state of the EU. It's a colourful, photogenic, and deeply symbolic promenade. As you stroll across, pause to take in the classic Dinant vista: the waterfront houses, the collegiate church, and the imposing Citadel forming a perfect, harmonious composition.
Collegiale Notre-Dame de Dinant
This church is a testament to Dinant's enduring spirit. After a rockfall destroyed its original Romanesque predecessor, it was reborn in the 13th century as a stunning example of Mosan Gothic architecture. Look closely at the dark limestone that gives it its sombre beauty. Its most iconic feature, the 16th-century onion-domed bell tower, was a later addition and stands as a defiant symbol against the stark cliff face. Step inside to admire the vast stained-glass window by Gustave Ladon, one of the largest in Europe, which floods the nave with an ethereal light.
Maison Adolphe Sax
You don't simply visit this museum; you interact with it. Located on the very site of Sax's birthplace, this compact, cleverly designed space is a sensory homage to the inventor. While there are no historical artefacts, it provides a wonderfully artistic interpretation of his life. Stand on the pavement outside to see the bronze statue of Sax on a bench, a popular spot for a photograph. Inside, you can trigger soundscapes and learn about the saxophone's journey from a controversial new invention to a global musical icon, making it an engaging stop for all ages.
Maison Leffe
A short, pleasant walk along the river brings you to the beautifully restored convent of Bethlehem, now home to Maison Leffe. This brewery museum is an immersive experience in the world of one of Belgium's most famous abbey beers. Interactive exhibits detail the brewing process and the history of the Norbertine monks who first created it. The visit culminates in a tasting session where you can sample different Leffe varieties, accompanied by cheese, all while enjoying magnificent views over Dinant from the hotel's terrace bar.
Rocher Bayard
Standing sentinel at the southern entrance to the town, this 40-metre-high rock needle is a genuine geological curiosity steeped in romantic legend. The story tells of Bayard, the magical steed of the Four Sons of Aymon, who, in a desperate leap to escape the clutches of Emperor Charlemagne, shattered the rock with his mighty hoof. A road now passes through the narrow gap, making for a dramatic drive or walk into Dinant, literally passing through a piece of folklore.
Grotte de Dinant 'La Merveilleuse'
Discovered by railway workers in 1904, this "Marvellous Cave" lives up to its name. A guided tour leads you deep into the earth through a network of chambers filled with exquisite and unusually white stalactites, stalagmites, and delicate limestone draperies. The pure white formations and subterranean waterfalls create a magical, otherworldly atmosphere, offering a cool and fascinating respite, particularly on a warm summer's day.
Taste a Couque de Dinant
To call this a biscuit is to tell only half the story. A true local delicacy, the Couque de Dinant is forged from just two ingredients: wheat flour and honey. The dough is pressed into intricately carved wooden moulds depicting people, animals, and historical scenes, then baked at an extremely high temperature, which caramelises the honey and renders the biscuit incredibly hard. You don't bite it—you'd risk a tooth—but rather break off a small piece and allow it to slowly dissolve in your mouth, releasing a subtle, sweet flavour. It's a taste of history and a perfect, long-lasting souvenir.
Take a Meuse River Cruise
To fully appreciate the grandeur of the Meuse Valley, you must see it from the water. Cruise boats depart regularly from the embankment near the Charles de Gaulle Bridge. These relaxing 45-minute to one-hour trips glide past the stunning Dinant skyline before heading upriver towards the 16th-century Château de Freÿr, with its classical gardens, offering a different and serene perspective of the cliffs, castles, and wooded hillsides that define this beautiful region.
Getting There
Dinant is easily accessible from Brussels, making it an ideal day trip.
By Train: Direct trains run hourly from Brussels-Midi, Brussels-Central, and Brussels-North stations to Dinant. The journey takes approximately 90 minutes and offers scenic views of the Belgian countryside as you enter the Wallonia region.
By Car: The drive from Brussels to Dinant is straightforward, taking around 80 minutes via the E411 motorway. This offers the flexibility to explore the surrounding area at your own pace.
A Worthy Detour
For those travelling by car, the Gardens of Annevoie are a splendid stop between Brussels and Dinant. A short detour off the E411, these magnificent 18th-century water gardens are a symphony of fountains, cascades, and ponds, all powered by natural springs. It's a tranquil and beautiful interlude on your journey to the city of Sax.
